Armour Cutlery

I’d like to claim my knives were made through some mystical and enchanted process, but they’re not.  I start out with a bar of steel, forge it to rough shape, and grind it to final shape.  Conversely, if a knife is stock ground i take a piece of barstock and grind off whatever doesn't look like a knife.  Once I’m done with grinding I drill any holes, do an initial polish to 320 grit, and then stamp my blade with my name prior to heat treating.  Then it’s back to the sandpaper to finish the blade.  I’ll fit a guard or bolsters if the design calls for one, epoxy on the handle, and do any handle shaping and polishing needed.  The last step before sharpening is creating a leather or kydex sheath for the knife.

Steels Used:

Since I forge I mainly use high carbon steels.  I have used a bunch of other alloys  over the years, but these are the ones I’m most comfortable with.  

1095- Sometimes simple is better.  Basic high carbon steel.  It forges easily, grinds well, and holds an edge.  A great choice for workhorse hunters, utility knives, and all around every day carry knives.  Is also the basis for pattern welded steel combined with 15n20.  The majority of my stock removal knives are 1095 steel.  

W2- My personal favorite and "go to" carbon steel.  Holds an great edge and polishes amazingly.  If you want to show off a differential hardening or a hamon, this is the steel.   Great choice for  a utility, hunter, or small bowie.  Pair with a high end material and create a hamon and you have a show stopper of a blade that can function with the best of them.  Forge welds fairly easily, so is either W2 ro 1095 are my "core steels" for San Mai.  

80CRV2- This is replacing 5160 for me.  It’s basically 5160 with more carbon, so it holds an edge better while retaining 5160's toughness.  Plus it is much more consistent that 5160 batch to batch.  My go to steel for bowies, camp knives, fighters, and knives that will take a beating.  

01- Drill rod tool steel.  “Old One” has been used in knives for a long time for a simple reason- it holds an amazing edge.  Not the easiest to work and hamon development is spotty, but if you want a knife that is just going to cut & keep cutting it’s a great choice.  Often mistakenly labeled as a "beginner steel" because it is easy to source and is forgiving in heat treat.  It is easy to make a "good" knife with O1.  Making an exceptional knife is trickier.

52100- chrome moly steel often associated with large industrical bearings.  Not the easiest forging steel, but when done well 52100 will make a blade that is tough as heck while still holding an amazing edge.  

Pattern Weld: 

Pattern welding for me falls into 3 categories:

San Mai- Carbon steel core with a outer layers of a contrasting material such as wrought iron, mild steel, or stainless steel. Striking and unique while still having a subtle beauty.   

Pattern Welding-  Otherwise known as Damascus, it is different alloys forge welded toghether in layers from 20 up to the hundreds.  The variety of patterns are astronimcal, so before any order I'll talk with you about the options so we can met your needs.  

Wierd Stuff- This is where the craziness happens.  Cable, canister, bike chain- there are a ton of unique and wild ways to make a knife blade.  I generally don't take orders on these but make them occasionally when I want to make something off the wall.   

Finishes:

Usually my knives come with one of 3 finishes.  I have the buffing wheels and compound to do a mirror polish.  I rarely do one because it just isn’t practical on a working knife.  If you want it on your knife that’s fine.  Don’t be stunned when it looks like crap after 6 months of carry and use.  My 3 finishes are:

Working finish:  800 grit finish polished on a rubber backed surface.  Not a truly smooth finish, but an attractive and consistent finish that holds up well to daily use.

Hand rubbed finish:  1500 grit polish polished on a hard back surface.  Not quite as practical, but super pretty while still appropriate for a working knife.  Smooth and attractive without looking “machined”

Quick finish: a simple finish for a hard working knife.  My stock patterns are this finish.  220 grit hand rubbed with a rubber backed surface followed by a coarse surface conditioning pad.  Not a perfect finish, but even and attractive. 

Custom Orders:

I do custom orders.  Right now my turnaround time is about 3 months. Before any custom order I will discuss it with you in detail about what you want and if I think I can supply it to your satisfaction and price range. 

Thanks for looking

Dave